Brass Lavandin Formula

Building an accord

The lavender you notice in this fougère is not one material but two related oils used in almost equal amounts, together about a tenth of the formula. One has a keener edge and more camphor, the other is softer and more honeyed; alone, each feels incomplete, but side by side the sharp one gives lift and the soft one gives body, so the herb reads fuller than either could on its own. The fougère character comes from the company it keeps rather than from the herb itself: a warm, hay-like sweetness and a dry, mossy floor below, and a wide band of bright peel above, about a third of the batch.

The power of traces

Why the spices stay small: two warm spice oils and a carnation-like note together come to about a thirtieth of the formula, enough to give the herb a warm glow without turning the whole scent spicy.

Cleanliness

How a clean, lime-like freshness used at about a tenth makes the citrus seem freshly rinsed and contemporary — the cologne line that keeps a classic structure from feeling old-fashioned.

Dihydromyrcenol · Exaltolide (pentadecanolide) · Geranyl acetate · Iso E Super · Methyl cedryl ketone

27 more materials · proportions only in the card you receive