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Z-14* Type Formula StudyCordovan 74 · GA-022729
A leather chypre that opens on bright citrus. Bitter herbs and sturdy woods, then the long-lasting shade of moss and leather.
An independent interpretation — not affiliated with the owner of Z-14
*Z-14 is a trademark of its owner. GrassAccord is not affiliated with, endorsed by, or sponsored by the owner of Z-14. This is our own perfumery study document, built on our laboratory’s independent interpretation of how the fragrance smells. It is not the formula of the company that owns Z-14, and nothing in it was obtained from that company.
Trademark or copyright questions or requests: rights@grassaccord.com
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$59.00 · Sillage Reserve formula · with coupons, for Sillage members- Digital product: a formula PDF, sent as a download link by email usually within minutes of payment.
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SKU: GA-022729-A-1
What you’ll learn from this formula
How light and shadow meet
a citrus-lit opening on a leather-and-moss chypre
Main skill
Contrast
Leather and moss are the darkest notes in perfumery, and here they take up only about a twentieth of the formula, while bright citrus takes more than two fifths. The two never meet head-on: a large woody frame stands between them, and a generous, transparent jasmine material opens air in the heart, so the heavy base breathes beneath the light instead of covering it. That is how a leather chypre can open in full sun.
Supporting skill
The power of traces
How leather comes from precision, not volume: one smoky leather material, weighed from a dilute solution at one of the smallest doses in the formula, together with traces of animalic and earthy root notes, lays a tobacco-dark grain across the whole scent. Take it out and only a bright woody chypre is left.
Supporting skill
Backbone and seasoning
How woods hold up the light: dry, cedar-like woods and an earthy dark wood note form the largest part after the citrus. They add little sparkle of their own, yet they carry the bright opening into the heart and lay the floor where moss and leather settle.
Key materials
4-tert-Butylcyclohexyl acetateCitralMethyl cedryl ketoneMethyl dihydrojasmonate (Hedione)
28 more materials · proportions only in the card you receive
Level
Intermediate3 / 5
Description
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