Santal 33* Type Formula Study
TYPE

Santal 33* Type Formula StudySantal Trail 11 · GA-020159

The smell of dry wood comes first, and over it pass the cool breath of cardamom and the powdery shade of violet. Soon a creamy, soft wood and suede settle on the skin and linger within a broad, clear musk. A creamy dry woody that spreads far without feeling heavy.

An independent interpretation — not affiliated with the owner of Santal 33

*Santal 33 is a trademark of its owner. GrassAccord is not affiliated with, endorsed by, or sponsored by the owner of Santal 33. This is our own perfumery study document, built on our laboratory’s independent interpretation of how the fragrance smells. It is not the formula of the company that owns Santal 33, and nothing in it was obtained from that company.

Trademark or copyright questions or requests: rights@grassaccord.com

$59.00 + taxUSD · Digital formula file — no physical product shipped
Nearly 15 yearsof hands-on perfumery
Sfuminotechnique applied

With this formula you receive

All benefits

First paid purchase? A question credit for our perfumer ($100 value), right away.

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    The Perfumer’s Card — First card 7, then 14 — one question for our perfumer ($100 value)

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  • Vetiver Membership coupons

    For Vetiver Membership formulas · valid 3 months · worth $105

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  • Mileage

    Of what you pay · use it on your next order

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  • Sillage

    3 months of member benefits · renewed with every purchase

    3 mo.
  • Digital product: a formula PDF, sent as a download link by email usually within minutes of payment.
  • No perfume, oil, raw material or sample is shipped.
  • Refundable within 14 days of purchase until you download the file; non-refundable after the first download. Refund Policy · Delivery Policy · Terms

SKU: GA-020159-A-1

What you’ll learn from this formula

How a name and a body can differ

one wide, transparent wood under a scent remembered as creamy

  • Main skill

    Backbone and seasoning

    A scent like this is remembered as creamy wood, yet the body of this formula is a single transparent woody material, about three-fifths of the whole on its own. The natural oil of the wood its name points to is only about a hundred-and-eightieth. That is the lesson: a material dosed this broadly stops reading as a note and becomes the air of the scent, and everything else is placed in small amounts inside that air. Together with a clear musk and amber of a little under a fifth, this wide, quiet body lets the scent spread far without feeling heavy.

  • Supporting skill

    Creaminess

    Where the cream comes from: the soft, milky suede people remember is not a large block. It comes from four materials that together make up less than a hundredth of the formula, set between the wood and the skin, and the perfumer’s secret, at less than a four-hundredth, sits among them. A texture can be small and still be what people remember.

  • Supporting skill

    Lifting the opening

    How a small block draws the first impression: the cool, slightly bitter opening everyone meets first is only about a seventy-fifth of the formula, and the powdery shade of violet and iris about an eleventh. They read clearly because the wood beneath them is so wide and quiet, and they give a nearly empty structure a recognisable face.

  • Key materials

    Ambrettolidebeta-IononeCashmeranEthylene brassylateIso E Super

    50 more materials · proportions only in the card you receive

About

ProductDigital fragrance formula (file only)
Total PDF Pages40 pages (English edition)
TypeEau de Parfum formula
GrassAccord SfuminoApplied — see how it works
Olfactive FamilyCreamy Dry Woody
GenderUnisex
Total Materials55
PyramidTop / Middle / Base
Top NotesCardamom, Dry Cedar, Papyrus
Middle NotesIris, Violet
Base NotesLeather, Amber, Creamy Wood, Clear Musk
Recommended Usage15% in perfumer's alcohol
DeliveryPDF download link by email, minutes after payment

Description

Released in 2011, this fragrance bears the name of sandalwood, yet what reaches the nose first is not a sweet Indian-style sandalwood but the dry wood of cedar and papyrus. Cardamom opens it coolly, iris and violet cast a powdery shade, and leather and amber lie low beneath. This fragrance is famous for dividing opinion. Some people call it soft as cream, some catch a passing cucumber or pickle, and others think of pencils and new leather. With time the grain of the wood fades and a clear musk stays close to the skin. It has been worn so widely that people say you can smell it everywhere on the streets and subways of New York, and many remember it as the scent of the city. This is the impression our perfumer formed on smelling the reference fragrance, written in our own words. It is not a measurement and not the reference fragrance’s formula.

FAQ

Questions about this formula

Beyond the formula: why the scent becomes what it is.

01Cheaper formulas exist. What makes GrassAccord’s different?

The same name does not mean the same scent.

A formula is a set of numbers. Whether those numbers become a good scent can only be known by making it. That is why formulas with the same name can differ widely in quality depending on who made them.

Nearly 15 yearsof hands-on perfumery
Sfuminotechnique applied

GrassAccord is not a company that only sells formulas. It is run by an affiliate of a working perfumery business. Each formula carries close to 15 years of hands-on perfumery, built through product development for many fragrance brands.

So we make the scent before we publish the numbers. Every formula we sell has been compounded, matured and smelled by a perfumer before it is released.

You can find numbers for less elsewhere. What we give you is the assurance that these numbers become a real scent, and a Study of 20 to 40 pages that explains why.

02What is different after I buy?

We do not hand you a formula and walk away. We stay with you until the scent is finished.

Perfumery is more than weighing what is on the page. A material may be new to you, or the scent may drift while it matures. For those moments, you will not be on your own.

  • Ask a perfumer directly. Your first paid purchase includes one perfumer’s question credit, answered in the language you choose.
  • Understand the materials. The Ingredient Dictionary shows each material’s character and its regulations by region.
  • Learn the principles, not just the numbers. Most formulas on the market come as the numbers alone. Each of ours comes with a detailed Study of 20 to 40 pages that explains why each material is there and why in that proportion, so you can understand the fundamentals of scent and build the ability to develop better fragrances yourself.

Scent is more convincing than words. Try a Vetiver Membership formula first and judge for yourself.

03What is GrassAccord Sfumino?

The layers you cannot smell shape the texture of a fragrance.

GrassAccord Sfumino is our perfumer’s technique. Materials at 0.02% or less, too little to be smelled on their own, are laid in several layers. Together they soften the seams between accords, round off sharp edges and gently change the character of the dry-down.

Every paid formula’s PDF has a “The Art of Sfumino” chapter showing which materials were used and why. See how it works

04If GrassAccord is affiliated with a perfumery business, isn’t selling these formulas giving away its core craft?

What we sell is not the whole of our craft, but a door into it.

The niche perfume formulas we work on professionally are far more intricate and creative than these. A Type formula is a study document, made so you can learn the principles of perfumery through a well-known scent.

So publishing these formulas does not unsettle our own creative work. If anything, we hope more people will learn perfumery by making good formulas with their own hands.

Scent knows no borders and no single language. Each time one more person learns what a good formula is, a bottle of perfume or a candle somewhere in the world becomes a little more beautiful. That the world’s scents grow a little better this way, and that more people come to enjoy beautiful fragrance in their everyday lives: that is what we truly hope for.

05Will it smell exactly like the original perfume?

No. A Type formula is a study document that GrassAccord developed independently to learn the impression of a reference scent. It does not promise the same scent as the original. It is not the brand’s formula, and we have no affiliation with the brand.

The finished scent also changes with the materials, equipment and maturation time you use.

06Can I make it as a beginner?

The formulas are written for people with basic perfumery knowledge. Proportions are given as percentages by weight, so if you can weigh materials on a scale, you can follow them.

If you are just starting, we suggest practising first with a Vetiver Membership formula and the Ingredient Dictionary.

07How much is my first purchase?

When you create an account, we give you a $10 voucher valid for 14 days. For this formula, your first purchase comes to $49.00.

The voucher is applied automatically at checkout, and you can remove it there if you prefer.

08Where do I get the materials?

The study document lists every material and its proportion. Materials are bought separately from fragrance material suppliers, and you can look up each one in the Ingredient Dictionary.

Difficulty finding a material is not a reason for a refund, so please check before buying that the materials are available where you are.

09What if I get stuck?

Use a perfumer’s question credit to ask a perfumer directly. Your first paid purchase includes one. The answer arrives within two weeks as a PDF report in the language you choose, and a credit can be used for three months from the day you receive it.

10May I sell products made with this formula?

Yes. With a formula you have bought, you may make and sell perfumes and other scented products such as candles, diffusers and soaps.

Safety assessment, labelling, product registration, IFRA standards and the laws of every country where you sell are your responsibility. Your products may not use a brand’s name, logo or bottle shape, or be advertised as smelling like a named perfume.

11May I share the formula with others?

No. Formulas and study documents may not be shared, resold or posted, even for free.

You may disclose a formula to a contract manufacturer or testing laboratory only as far as needed to make or assess your product, and only after they have promised confidentiality in writing.

12How do I receive it?

Nothing is shipped. A few minutes after payment, we email you a PDF download link. How long the link stays valid and how many downloads it allows depend on your membership tier: 7 days and 3 downloads at the starting tier.

If the PDF is not yet ready in your language, this page says so, and you can download the English edition first.

13Can I get a refund?

Yes, within 14 days of purchase and before you first download the file. After the first download, a refund is possible only if the file is defective, for example if it will not open or pages are missing, and we cannot fix or resend it within 7 days of being told.

A scent that differs from what you expected, or a change of mind, is not a reason for a refund. For full details, please see the Terms of Service and the refund policy.